Meze at Mer Bleue

In the native Greek language of Cyprus, I’m not sure what the word “meze” means. For me, it could easily translate to “abundance”, “insanity” or even “gluttony.” Every travel guide, internet site, and pamphlet I referred to specifically said Cyprus is known for the local taverns and their “meze” meals. These meals consist of a fixed price per person, normally around 30-40 Euros for two people, and offer a variety of local cuisine. It is served as courses, with each course containing anywhere from 6-10 options of food to try. At Mer Bleue, our favorite local tavern here in Larnaka (which just happens to sit directly on the Mediterranean Sea), they offer a couple of options for your meze. You can choose the grilled meze which covers the gamut of grilled kabobs and meat or you may opt for the fish meze and choose to indulge in fresh seafood and fish (which, by the way, you can pick out of their live tanks inside if you so desire.) Of course Paul wanted the grilled option, not wanting to miss out on tzatziki and lamb chops. With such a variety of food, I indulged him knowing that I would be the one eating most of the vegetables while he was the most carnal of the pair of us. Keep in mind…my loose translation means that we just ordered a grilled abundance of insanity. J The first round of food arrived in the form of fresh Cypriot bread, warm grilled pita, and a variety of dipping sauces including tzatziki, a freshly made thick and creamy hummus (my favorite by far!), tahini, a garlic sauce called skordalia, a pink fish roe salad called taramosalata, and Paul’s favorite which is a spicy cheese pepper dip called dip piperato. Of course, we immediately dig in to the delectable fresh dips, barely able to tear apart the crispy grilled pita because it’s still too hot from the wood burning oven, but we can’t possibly wait another second to rip, dip, and pop it into our salivating mouths.

As the waves continue to crash barely a meter from our table in the al fresco dining, the second course begins before we’re even finished with the first. I think the staff realizes they can’t possibly wait until all of the food is gone before they serve the next round because they would never reach the entrees! J Grilled mushroom caps (of course drizzled in olive oil with a roasted garlic clove inside), grilled Haloumi cheese atop a thick slice of grilled ham (here is a fun fact- supposedly Haloumi cheese is the only kind of cheese you can cook without it melting and it also retains its shape), and a fresh Greek salad complete with olives, feta, bright red tomatoes, and crisp cucumbers arrive and are presented to us as the dips are rearranged to the back of the table. (I should have seen the foreshadowing of a feast when we ordered the meze and the owner of the tavern came out and moved another table to join ours where we would have room.)

The sun sets and night descends onto our ever expanding table as the next round of courses begin. Ravioli stuffed with Haloumi cheese, fried cheese locally called chaloumi saganaki, couscous with thick Greek yogurt, and a quiche-like dish of grilled zucchini, spinach, onion, and eggs all replace the partially eaten appetizers. I add a quick mental note to myself of everything that is in the dish that reminds me of quiche because I know my brother would love it and I think I can recreate it at home. Even with each dish only housing two portions, Paul and I are beginning to slow our pace as it doesn’t seem like we can possibly each much more. Not knowing exactly what we ordered, Paul asks me if this is the last course. I smile and nod menacingly, knowing that we haven’t even received the actual grilled meat courses, which are considered the entrée portion of the meal so there had to be quite a bit more on its way from the kitchen.

At some point, a platter of chips (known better to us Americans as French Fries) appears amidst the other culinary options. I was extremely surprised by this dish, not because it is chips- those seem to be served with many things here, but because they could have easily been prepared by my mom and dad. They were fresh cut fries from potatoes, deep fried in oil, with crispy ends and meaty middles smothered in salt. I hope my mom doesn’t take offense to the insinuation that someone else can rival her fries; I’m merely paying tribute to the deliciousness of the dish here. To compare to my mom’s cooking is a big deal and these fries were hers. It seemed almost sinful or sad to eat these fries without a twisty piece of bass and a sweet hushpuppy beside them. J And yes, Brenda, we are talking about the very same fries that I taught you to make the first time we ate fish from your pond. They’re THAT good. Not only does Mer Blueu have Cypriot cuisine right, they can rival family favorites. To read more on our favorite meals which will include our hometown favorites, you’ll have to refer to Paul’s upcoming blog titled “Top Ten Teleportation-worthy Meals.”

Local cats trail behind the smiling, friendly staff as they bring our finale in shifts. Grilled lamb chops smothered in parsley and finely chopped onion, a variety of succulent grilled kabobs (chicken, beef, and pork in bite size pieces known as souvlakia), very thick slices of pork reminiscent of bacon, seftalies (veal and pork meatballs wrapped in sheep skin), and keftedes (fried meatballs) round out a ridiculously huge meal. This round of dishes isn’t really what I typically enjoy eating but it didn’t matter because I didn’t have any room anyway. Paul LOVES almost every option presented, but was only able to sample a few of the different varieties of meatballs and half of a lamb chop. Paul left lamb chops on the plate, even though they are absolutely his favorite! We simply could not consume any more food. When the smiling owner came over, Paul joked with him- “did we order the meze for six?!?” Of course, used to our banter, the owner smiled, patted Paul on the back and replied "require a rest; you can start again in a minute.” Wait… a minute?! We would need a day.

As Paul finishes off his carafe of wine and I down the last of my drink created for a football team (it is the team’s colors), we clearly understand why the cats were trailing behind the staff of Mer Bleue as they brought out the meat. One of the friendly servers now carried a platter overflowing with what we quickly realize is our leftovers to the side of the dining area, making little clicking noises with her mouth as she ambled her way through the maze of tables. Her feline friends quickly followed, apparently aware of routine. One thing you have to understand about Cyprus is that cats roam free everywhere on the island. In my mind, they’re descendants of the cats carried aboard cargo and trading ships hundreds of years go (to control the mice and rat populations aboard the ships). I don’t know if it’s actually true that they’re descendants of those ship cats or not, but it sure seems like it could be to me. J Don’t get me wrong, the company of the cats is not a burden; they don’t really beg for food or crowd one’s space. They seem to know their purpose and place in the friendly environment of Cyprus but don’t take advantage of the hospitality given to them. As couples meander through villages, they stop to pet cats that roam the streets. While enjoying a coffee in an outdoor café, it is very possible you will have a furry friend “test the waters” so to speak to see if you’re willing to allow them to join you for the afternoon. They seem to belong to everyone and no one at the same time- enjoying what they can from everyone who passes, yet not really answering to anyone- always able to quickly dart back inside a bush or down an ally if the need arises. You see every color and variety of cats from tabbies to calico, and even some very unique mixes thanks to their wandering lifestyle and seemingly free breeding. My favorite cat meanders around the pool of the hotel and is bright white with a few big tan spots on its back and side. Then, all of a sudden, the tail is completely calico colored along with the very bottoms of its feet and right around its nose. That cat was probably the most interesting and beautiful cat that I’ve ever seen, so surprising and unique in its coloration.

So a perfect end to a perfect meal. The extra abundance of food didn’t get wasted or thrown out; it went to those who provide entertainment to tourists, locals, and passersby. After bidding goodnight to the friendly staff at Mer Bleue that we have really enjoyed chatting with over the past week, Paul and I stroll along the boardwalk back to our hotel. The moon is shining on the water, waves are crashing at our feet, Paul is holding my hand, and we’re assembling a verbal list of our “top ten favorite meals” after enjoying a week’s vacation exploring the friendly, beautiful, and welcoming island of Cyprus. Life is good. No…it is better than good. Life is amazing. :)